Not long ago I watched an old episode of Dinner Date, and when sitting for the starter the contestant admitted that she’d never tried asparagus.
I was surprised to hear it, though it dawned on me that as a middle class chef from London my shock was likely misplaced. It’s probably quite normal for somebody in the UK to have never tried asparagus, or indeed a plethora of other dishes and ingredients that I’ve come to take for granted.
But if asparagus lies near one end of the spectrum, what exists at the other? Are there any dishes that are truly universal (in the UK at least)?
Enter the baked bean.
Savoury and slightly sweet, soaking into crisp toast, softening the top into a mattress on which the starchy beans can rest, whilst maintaining the structure to be lifted by a fork (or a hand). It’s an image so familiar to so many of us.
There’s a luxuriousness to a mouthful of beans on toast, despite it being one of the most working class things you could eat. It satiates the appetite and the soul.
The meal itself, however, isn’t what’s piqued my interest. Instead, it’s the idea that almost all of us have it in common. It’s a true example of a shared culture.
I spoke to my friend Noah about how my Nanni (grandmother) used to make me hot Ribena, an experience that I thought was unique until he raised his eyebrows and agreed that it was delicious, and that he might have to ‘bring it back for winter’. It was nice knowing that my friend and I had both experienced the same thing growing up, long before we knew each other, in two completely different households, one Black Caribbean and one White Jewish.
Beans on toast makes me think of all the things we have in common, even when we don’t know it, and that if we were to add them up, these secret details of our lives, they would likely far outweigh the things that divide us. I think it’s important to remember that, at one point or another, we’ve all sat down to the same meal.
It’s just something to think about. I don’t want to get all cheesy on you. I’ll leave that to the beans.
Here’s how to make your own at home:
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp olive oil
½ tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp chilli flakes
400g can tomatoes
1 tsp brown sugar
500g (18oz) jar of cannellini beans (or 2 400g tins)
1 pickled chilli, chopped
Fry the onion, garlic and spices in the olive oil until translucent, stirring often.
Add all the remaining ingredients (apart from the cannellini beans), turn up the heat to high and simmer for 5 minutes.
Using a blender, blend the sauce until smooth, then tip in the jar of cannellini beans, including their liquid (if using the tins, just use the liquid from 1).
Simmer for 10-15 minutes over a medium heat, then taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. Serve hot.
Thanks to Emily Ezekiel who I developed this recipe with for One Plate: Brunch In London.
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